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Yamaha FZ6 Modifications to Consider - Part 1
By Travis McChesney

As an owner of a new Yamaha FZ6 motorcycle, I find myself facing a world of after-market accessories and modifications that can enhance both the looks and performance of my bike. Over the next few posts, I'll list a number of options I've come across and give a little description of each. Eventually I'll be putting some of the best candidates to the test on my own FZ6. But first, let's explore the options. Keep in mind that virtually anything can be done to a motorcycle, but I'll list the most main-stream items here, just to keep it simple. Also, I'll take each one of these in turn and produce a more in-depth analysis.

* Exhaust - There are a number of options available in the exhaust arena. The key here is to find a nice balance of looks, performance, weight, and sound. Right now I'm leaning toward the Akrapovic exhaust system. From the videos I've seen, it sounds nice (not excessively loud), and gives a nice performance increase while also being one of the lightest. Some exhausts are rated for track use only and are loud enough to draw the attention of local law enforcement. I'd like to steer clear of that if possible.

* Windscreen - The stock Yamaha FZ6 windscreen is fairly small and, for the riding position, doesn't really flow the air over the rider. The wind mostly hits at about chest level. There are a couple of options to change this. Yamaha offers a larger, touring windscreen, that is a bit larger and is designed to flow air higher up and over the rider. Another company called Puig offers a racing windscreen that has a "double bubble" design that, even though it's not much larger than the stock windscreen, pushes air up and over the rider. I personally like this option as it lends an additional dimension to the bike, and they are available in a variety of looks including black, smoke, and clear.

* Seat - One of the aspects about the Yamaha FZ6 that I do NOT like is the seat. For some reason, I just don't like the way it looks. The seat is comfortable enough, I suppose I'm just used to the R6 seat that has two levels and seems more sporty. Again, Yamaha has an after-market offering, but it is considered a "comfort" seat, and doesn't look much different than the original. I don't need extra comfort, just extra awesomeness. The website topsaddlery.com has a great selection of custom seats for the FZ6. The one pictured to the right is much more my style. It's got more dimension and style than the factory seat, and I'm sure I'll be getting one eventually.

Stay tuned to my Yamaha FZ6 Modifications to Consider series as I'll be taking a look at the following items:

* Grips
* Levers
* Rearsets
* FE kit
* Mirrors
* Turn signals
* Brake lines
* Brake pads
* Frame Sliders
* Air Filter

After this series, I'll go in-depth with each of these Yamaha FZ6 modifications to see what exactly is out there and what people think about them.

>http://yamaha-fz6.blogspot.com
>http://yamaha-fz6.blogspot.com/2008/07/yamaha-fz6-modifications-to-consider.html


Article Source: >www.ezinearticles.com

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Yamaha FZ6 Modifications to Consider - Part 2
By Travis McChesney

Welcome to part 2 of my series about the different modifications that are available for the Yamaha FZ6 motorcycle. It seems like every time I turn around I find something new that can be done to my FZ6. In Part 1 of this series I discussed the aftermarket possibilities of upgraded exhaust, windscreens, and seats. In Part 2 I will give an overview of the options available for new grips, levers, and rear sets. In contrast to a powertrain modification, these are mostly aesthetic and comfort rather than performance enhancements. Let's get to it.

* Grips - There are a couple of reasons to consider getting new grips for the Yamaha FZ6. One reason is comfort. Some find that the grips on the FZ6 are too small and not comfortable enough for long rides. Increasing the size of the grips, for some, increases their comfort and puts less strain on the hands and wrist. In addition, there are grips that contain gel which will, for obvious reasons, increase grip comfort. Another reason to consider new grips is for their aesthetic value. The grips that come stock with the FZ6 are black and very nondescript. Many grips are available that have bright colors and logos that display brand loyalty among other things. Being one of the least expensive modifications, this would be a good one to consider if it is of any interest to you at all.

* Levers - The levers that come on the Yamaha FZ6 are pretty standard and similar to what you'd see on any other stock motorcycle. They are long, silver, and have a larger ball-looking end on them. They are fine for what they were designed for, but there is something to be gained by switching to after-market levers.. The same two reasons for replacing grips applies to levers. Changing grips can provide a comfort enhancement as well as an aesthetic enhancement. Additionally, though, some levers provide some added convenience features that make them easier to adjust than stock. Many after-market levers are a bit shorter than the stock versions and allow the use of two or three fingers for shifting and braking without the extra length of the lever pinching the remaining fingers. As riders get more advanced and confident with shifting and braking, shorter levers can be much more comfortable and easy to use. Aesthetically speaking, after-market levers are available in a variety of colors and styles that can be used to highlight or contrast the bike's color and design. Lastly, many levers come now with the ability to adjust lever position on-the-fly to account for brake fade and clutch adjustments. This can be a great help as compared with the stock levers that require more work to make the same adjustments. Some levers also include the ability to "fold" the levers near their pivot points. This can certainly come in handy if excessive pressure is applied to the ends of the levers. Rather than breaking something more critical, the lever simply "folds" up.

* Rearsets - Rearsets make up the rider's footpegs, shifting lever, and rear brake lever. I haven't seen as much about rearsets for the Yamaha FZ6 as I have other modifications, but they are out there and worth mentioning. Some of the reasons for replacing the rearsets are similar to the other modifications I've mentioned. There is comfort/usability and aesthetics. After-market rearsets typically have the ability to be adjusted forward, backward, up, and down. This is a definite advantage when seeking additional comfort and improved riding position. In addition to adjustability, after-market rearsets are typically of higher quality than original equipment. Many note that the shifting is much crisper and cleaner feeling, and braking is also more positive. Some drawbacks are that many rearset pegs are fixed, and therefore will not fold up in case of a crash, or anything catching on it. This could be detrimental to the mechanisms attached to the pegs if the force on them is great enough. Some rearsets that I really like the looks of are the Rizoma rearsets (pictured). One thing to note, though, is that they're built for the European FZ6 which doesn't have a built-in center stand like the U.S. version, and they interfere with each other. Slight modification is necessary to get them to fit properly.

Stay tuned to my Yamaha FZ6 Modifications to Consider series. We still have a number of items to cover:

* FE kit
* Mirrors
* Turn signals
* Brake lines
* Brake pads
* Frame Sliders
* Air Filter

>http://yamaha-fz6.blogspot.com


Article Source: >www.ezinearticles.com

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Yamaha FZ6 Modifications to Consider - Part 3
By Travis McChesney

This is Part 3 of my series related to modifications for the Yamaha FZ6 motorcycle. In Part 2 of the series I discussed some modifications related to grips, levers, and rearsets. In Part 3, I'm going to explore the benefits of fender eliminator (FE) kits, mirrors, and turn signals. This is a great time for me to discuss FE kits, as I just ordered one from ebay, and I'm anxiously awaiting its arrival. With a new fender also comes the obvious opportunity for replacing the stock turn signals. So, here we go:

* Fender Eliminator Kits - Fender eliminator kits for the Yamaha FZ6 are designed to replace the large rear fender, usually with a more compact piece. Many sport bikes come with a large, usually unsightly rear fender onto which the license plate mounts. The fender eliminator kits are aimed at cleaning up the look of the rear end and giving a more sporty appearance. The benefit of a fender eliminator kit is primarily, if not exclusively, aesthetic. There is no performance benefit that I can think of that would come from installing an FE kit. I actually just ordered a kit from ebay and it should be arriving in the next couple of days. Expect a post about the install with before and after pictures. Before purchasing one of these kits it's important to decide what you'd like to be included in the kit. The piece I ordered allows for the stock turn signals and license plate light to be re-used. This is one reason I ordered this particular FE kit as I believe that the original lights are large and easily seen and distinguished by other motorists. Also keep in mind that in order to be legal, you must have a light for the license plate. Some FE kits don't include any lights, such as the one I purchased, and some come with all new aftermarket turn signals and license plate lights. The lights that come with some kits are very small LED lights which are mounted exceptionally close together. To me, this is just an easy way to make it harder for other motorists to see what you're doing. Later in this post I'll discuss some of the options for after-market turn signals.

* Mirrors - There are a number of options available with which to replace the stock mirrors on the Yamaha FZ6. Some find that they cannot see behind them very well with the standard mirrors. Personally, I find that the stock mirrors do just what I need them to do. Additionally, changing mirrors can also change the overall look of the bike. Some simply don't like the way the original mirrors look. Options include mirrors that mount in the same place, but have different finishes and shapes, and mirrors that mount on the bar ends and have different shapes, sizes, and finishes.

* Turn Signals - The turn signals that come with the Yamaha FZ6 are large and orange. This is to ensure that they meet all state and local laws pertaining to proper turn signal mounting, color, etc. Some people just don't find these lights appealing and want to replace them with something a bit more sporty and inconspicuous. The advantages to after-market turn signals are aesthetic and safety related. The aesthetic value is obvious, and the safety benefits are debatable. Many of the turn signals available for the Yamaha FZ6 will mount flush on the front, and similarly on the back and are markedly smaller. Some simply have a different shape and/or lens color. My personal view is that smaller lights, even though they might be brighter, are not necessarily better. I'd rather have other motorists be able to see the lights and be able to tell where I'm intending to go as easily as possible. It is also worth noting that there are replacement tail lights available that include functionality to show directional signals. This would negate the need for any additional turn signal at all.

Thanks for checking out Part 3 of my series about Yamaha FZ6 Modifications to Consider. In the fourth and final post of this series I'll be discussing:

* Brake lines

* Brake pads

* Frame Sliders

* Air Filter

>http://yamaha-fz6.blogspot.com


Article Source: >www.ezinearticles.com

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Yamaha FZ6 Modifications to Consider - Part 4
By Travis McChesney

This is the fourth and final installment of my "Modifications to Consider" series for the Yamaha FZ6 motorcycle. It's been a while since I last posted, but it's a nice day today and I was able to ride my bike and renew my FZ6 zeal.

If you remember, in Part 3, I discussed fender eliminators, mirrors, and turn signals. For this post, I'll go through some options that exist for frame sliders, brake lines & brake pads, and air filters. Some of these mods are more practical than anything else and thought they warranted some discussion.

* Frame Sliders - For obvious reasons, frame sliders are an invaluable addition to the Yamaha FZ6, especially for newer riders. The main purpose of frame sliders are to protect the expensive bike body parts if the bike were to fall over, either at a stop or while moving. I know from experience that a fallen bike without frame sliders can be an expensive ordeal indeed. I also believe that, no matter how experienced the rider, frame sliders should always be a consideration. They're essentially like insurance, and cheap insurance at that. You can expect that they'll help protect the fairings, engine, and frame. Investing in good quality sliders is a must as they are designed to break away under high pressure so as not to damage the frame. Obviously they can't protect under all circumstances, but are definitely worth a look.

* Brake Lines & Pads - Replacement of the stock Yamaha FZ6 brake pads and brake lines can be for aesthetic purposes as well as for performance enhancement. High quality braided lines decrease the amount of expansion in the lines when applying the brakes. This ensures consistent braking performance under all braking conditions. Additionally, high quality brake pads will ensure minimal brake fade under hard and constant braking as well as higher sensitivity and longevity. Many aftermarket brake lines will be steel braided and can come in a variety of colors. This can add a personalized look to the bike if desired.

* Air Filters - Replacing the Yamaha FZ6 air filter should be for one main purpose: help the bike breathe better. The most common aftermarket air filter for many applications is the well-known K&N filter systems. The Yamaha FZ6 is no exception. This filter will help air flow easier to the engine and should allow it to run more efficiently. Additionally, this filter will last much longer than the stock filter between replacements and will only need to be washed re-oiled occasionally. The benefits of such an addition are increased horsepower and acceleration.

This wraps up my series of Yamaha FZ6 Modifications to Consider. As I'm able to round up more parts to consider I'll post more, but I'm going to try and cover some other topics in the next few posts. In the next post I'd like to share with you my fuel economy experience with the Yamaha FZ6 and give you an idea of how many miles per gallon you might expect to get.

>http://yamaha-fz6.blogspot.com


Article Source: >www.ezinearticles.com

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Yamaha FZ6 As a First Motorcycle
By Travis McChesney

I've seen many articles across the internet about the Yamaha FZ6 as a first motorcycle. From what I've seen, the opinions seem pretty well split, and I think for good reason.

I think there are definitely valid points for both arguments. My first motorcycle was a Yamaha R6. I really didn't ride it that much, nor did I ride it especially hard.

Common reason would suggest that this bike would not make a good first ride. It was powerful, fast, and had a very race-oriented seating position. Despite the choice, I was able to get some riding experience and understand just how powerful these bikes are.

Many people looking to get the Yamaha FZ6 as a first bike tend to suggest that it isn't as powerful or fast as the R6, or more racing style motorcycles. To me, this is a very weak argument.

Having owned both, I can tell you that the power/speed difference between these bikes is minimal at best. In fact, the FZ6 simply has an R6 motor, tuned for more low end torque. This, to me, doesn't mean that it's more tame or less dangerous than the R6.

This bike begs to be ridden hard and can put new riders into positions that they will not feel comfortable with nor have the experience to deal with.

Having said that, I believe that, under the right circumstances, the Yamaha FZ6 can make a suitable first motorcycle.

First and foremost, you must respect the abilities of the motorcycle. This is true for any motorcycle, but especially if you're starting out with something more than a 250cc engine. As I've said, the Yamaha FZ6 is very fast, and must be treated with additional care and respect when just starting out.

As a novice rider myself, I am still getting comfortable with my new 2008 FZ6 and haven't taken it past about 8,000 RPM. Luckily I bought it brand new, and during the break-in period, it needs to be babied. For me, it's a great time to get to know the bike, its capabilities, and characteristics.

As a new rider, I would suggest doing this regardless of its mileage or break-in status. You'll need to ride this bike conservatively for a while, before you'll have the experience and comfort to handle it properly.

I would say that, if you feel you have the self-discipline to take it easy for a while, the amount of respect necessary to understand the bike's capabilities and limitations, and a cautious attitude toward motorcycle riding, the Yamaha FZ6 would make a fine first motorcycle.

>http://yamaha-fz6.blogspot.com


Article Source: >www.ezinearticles.com

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Yamaha FZ6 - First Impressions
By Travis McChesney

I purchased my very first Yamaha FZ6 motorcycle 3 weeks back. It is a brand new 2008. Since then, I've been able to do some riding and find out what this bike has got.

Some background... I've owned two Yamaha bikes prior to purchasing one. They were both Yamaha R6 sport bikes. These R6s were both FAST... VERY fast. And, wouldn't you know, I like to go fast. This issue was, though, that they were not at all comfortable for longer trips. You sit laying over the gas tank with hands and arms at an strange angle when holding onto the handlebars.

One of the criteria I set forth when contemplating a new motorcycle, and eventually the Yamaha FZ6, was comfort. The other was power and speed. What I encountered in the FZ6 was a much more straight up riding position (FAR more comfortable for both rider and passenger) and a spunky R6 motor.

One major distinction, other than the two points I mentioned above, is that the Yamaha FZ6 lacks fairings on the sides to cover the engine and components like the R6. I never really had a preference one way or another, but now that I own the bike, I becoming fond of the "naked" look.

So, how does the Yamaha FZ6 stack up to my criteria? Fabulously!!

The Yamaha FZ6 is everything I knew it could be. The upright riding style is far more tolerable for extended rides and, to me, makes the bike easier to maneuver. In the speed department, it's still breaking-in and I have not exceeded about 8,000 RPM. But even in this lower range, it's got definite torque and power. And from what I've heard, the bike is a rocket-ship above 8,000 RPM. I'll keep you updated after I start really seeing what it's got.

My only criticisms thus far are the design of the seat, and the wind screen. I don't particularly like the design of the seat... I'm accustomed to the R6 seat. This is entirely an aesthetic complaint and has little to do with actual comfort. The seat can be swapped, however, and there are myriad of after-market seats available that can give it some personality.

As for the windscreen, it doesn't deflect air as much air above the rider as it should. At reasonably high speeds, I'm sure this could present a problem. Looking around, I've come across the Puig racing windscreen that I've heard remedies the situation, to an extent. This will probably be one of the first additions I make to the new Yamaha FZ6.

Thanks for reading about my first impressions of the Yamaha FZ6 motorcycle.

http://yamaha-fz6.blogspot.com


Article Source: www.ezinearticles.com

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Yamaha FZ6R - Proof That Fun Can Also Be Comfortable
By Cameron C Martel

When Yamaha released the FZ6R to the public earlier this year I was quick to review it. I hastily found a brand new one, barely a week out of its crate, and went to work. Over the course of half a day I flogged the bike through corners, around treacherous terrain (bumpy roads, gravel, etc.), up and down hills, through the mountains, and then back into good old city riding. It as a memorable half day, as the Yamaha FZ6R would become one of my all time favorite casual motorcycles.

What is a "Casual" Motorcycle?

Unlike the Yamaha R6, which is a super-sport motorcycle, the Yamaha FZ6R has certain conveniences that make it appealing for new and experienced riders alike. It has a more upright riding position, with less lean to the handle bars. This makes it more comfortable to sit on and ride, and after nearly half a day of abuse and hard riding my back still wasn't sore. On the R6 my back would have been killing me within an hour.

Not only that, but it doesn't pack a 160 horsepower engine. In fact, though Yamaha has been very hush-hush about just how much power it does make, you will find that the FZ6R is rather slow in comparison to any 600cc+ super-sport. Then again, that's like saying that the Chevrolet Corvette is slower than the Ferrari F430. At no point should you think that the Yamaha FZ6R is a slow machine, as it will still complete a quarter mile in around 12 seconds, and it will still outrun just about everything else on the street.

Why I Love this Bike

Speed isn't everything for a rider like me. I know that the FZ6R can get up and go with the best of them, and while it may not be able to keep pace with the higher-strung 600cc super-sports, it is still able to put a new or experienced rider into a performance threshold far beyond anything they likely will have experienced before. Not only that, but it does so without being an incredibly uncomfortable.

It has the looks of a sport bike, with aggressive fairing and a side-mounted "shorty" exhaust. The custom color/decaling that is available really sets this bike apart from other entry-level sports bikes, and it's made very clear early on that this isn't the traditional entry-level sports bike- the days of the Suzuki Katana are long gone.

The FZ6R has the sound of an Indy car, though it's a little quieter and much more pleasing to the ear. It sounds like a bat out of hell when taking off, and when it comes time to slow down the big brakes will stop you faster than you can say "ooh, nice brakes". It's the most performance that a new rider, or even one that's had a few seasons under their belt, could ever want for in a package that's both attractive and controllable.

This is NOT your Grandmothers Sports Bike

When people hear "entry level" they immediately assume a tame, hum-drum motorcycle that might look sporty but conveniently falls short on performance. They expect skinny tires, feeble brakes, and a ratty sounding exhaust. That's what makes the FZ6R such a smashing motorcycle- at no point do you feel embarrassed when you pull up next to a super sport.

Want to read more about the Yamaha FZ6R? Read Beginner Motorcyle Reviews and check out their Yamaha FZ6R review


Article Source: www.ezinearticles.com

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The 2008 Yamaha YZF-R1
By Frank Geu

The 2008 Yamaha YZF-R1 is here! Born from MotoGP technology Yamaha claims the YZF-R1 is "the most advanced open-class motorcycle ever built." I must admit the R1 is one awesome looking motorcycle. The R1 has a liquid cooled 998cc in-line four cylinder powerplant, making more power than the previous versions. Yamaha also claims the 2008 R1 "is the most powerful, tractable R1 powerplant ever, thanks partially due to the worlds first electronic variable-length intake funnel system". The throttle system is also cutting-edge due to Yamaha's Chip Control Throttle, featuring a 32-bit ECU fuel injection system that adjusts the funnel length between 65 and 140mm for a smoother powerband.

As soon as you pick this motorcycle up you can rest assured you have an awesome streetbike that is ready for the track whenever you decide to run it. Technology runs rampant is this bike, and help from MotoGp technology will blast adrenaline through your soul! This bike has a 4.75 gallon, two-piece fuel tank, fuel in the back, and an airbox for the ram-air system in the front. The motor features fuel-injection, 12.7 to 1 compression, with dual overhead camshafts, and four valves per cylinder including titanium intakes. The transmission has a 6 speed gearbox with a #530 chain turning the rear tire. The front suspension is a fully adjustable, 43mm, KYB inverted telescopic front fork design, while the rear is an adjustable twist-style spring preload, with low and high-speed compression adjustability.

The front fairing is striking as well as functional. The large ram-air scoops bring power-producing air into the engine, and the design is aerodynamic for high-speed riding. Overall the 2008 YZF-R1 is a stylish cutting-edge motorcycle.

Like the Yamaha YZF-R1? Visit http://2008yamahayzf-r1.blogspot.com for more.


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Yamaha Motorcycle Parts For Your Ride
By Alice Mills

If you love riding your Yamaha bike, you can enjoy the experience even more through great Yamaha motorcycle parts and accessories. Use this article to learn about what parts and accessories can help you meet your biking needs.

1. Safety

The safety of your bike depends on keeping its hardware up-to-date and in proper working order. Sometimes it's important to upgrade or replace parts of your bike that have become damaged or corroded. Yamaha motorcycle parts play an important part in keeping your Yamaha bike in proper working order. Buying branded parts and hardware accessories is important to maintaining the integrity and longevity of your bike.

2. Fun

Riding your Yamaha bike is sure to be fun, but why not make it more fun by adding Yamaha motorcycle parts and accessories that increase the look, ride or personality of your bike? With parts like kick cranks and stylized shock covers, you have all the more reason to ride and show off your bike. It's important to enjoy your ride no matter where you go!

3. Maintenance

Just because your motorcycle is running, it's not necessarily running well. Yamaha motorcycle parts such as improved performance mufflers, engine fans and shocks can be added, upgraded or replaced with brand-name parts to protect the quality and ride of your bike. Keep all the parts on your Yamaha in good working order to keep your entire bike in good working order.

Keep these three uses of Yamaha parts in mind and remember that buying brand name products usually pays off in the end. Take care of the safety and maintenance of your bike and it will provide you with years of fun.

To learn more about Yamaha motorcycle parts, visit http://www.state8.com


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Yamaha Motorcycle Parts - What Can They Do For You
By Craig Thornburrow

If you own a Yamaha motorcycle, you should invest in Yamaha motorcycle parts. Most of us enjoy going fast. There is nothing like driving down a rode on a beautiful Yamaha motorcycle, hearing the sound of it, and feeling the wind through our hair. Riding a motorcycle is a great experience, and you can most definitely relate if you have ever been on one

It is a good idea to invest in Yamaha parts because they can add subtle touches to the interior and exterior of your motorcycle. When purchasing these parts, it is always important that you find the ones that suit you and your bike best. Many people that decide to purchase parts buy them to keep their motorcycle stylish and sleek. If you already own a motorcycle, you are probably aware that everyone wants to have one that looks good and sounds good. It is vital to have a motorcycle that is able to perform and run well.

There is nothing better feeling than riding your motorcycle and noticing people turning their heads to look at your bike. By adding personalized parts to your already existing motorcycle, you are sure to turn even more heads. With stylish new parts and a louder engine, people will always want to look your way. With Yamaha motorcycle parts, you are sure to impress others, especially yourself. Fortunately, there are many ways to add Yamaha motorcycle parts to your bike to add a unique touch that makes your bike your own.

If your own your bike for long enough, you will soon have to by new parts for your motorcycle for things such as maintenance and replacement. No matter the brand of bike you have, each and every one of them at some point in time will require you to purchase new parts to keep it running how it should. When this day comes, instead of just buying the boring standard parts, why don't you invest in Yamaha motorcycle parts to add your bike?

With these parts, you are sure to stand out in the crowd. If you already own a Yamaha, there is nothing better than purchasing top notch, high quality parts for your bike. These Yamaha parts will allow your bike to have an enhanced performance as well as a better appearance. Choosing these specific motorcycle parts will allow you and your bike to gain respect in honor with your friends, family, and sometimes random people that you just so happen to run into.

Yamaha parts provide a vast range of products to choose from. You can decide to buy a deluxe hour time or meter, a new chain guard, a trunk, an exhaust system, chains, sprockets, back rests, passenger seats, and so much more. Even adding just one of these parts is sure to add a new and unique look to your bike.

These parts are made of all different types of materials that are designed to give you the look you want. Yamaha parts are made up of aluminum, titanium, and sometimes chrome. With top notch quality in mind, all the parts are very sturdy, durable, and can withstand being used every day as they are also made to be able to make it through every type of weather.

Widen your knowledge on Yamaha motorcycle parts at http://www.dtrworld.com - Free information and impartial advice.


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How to Prepare Your Motorcycle to Ride on the Racetrack
By Robert J McKay

Clean your motorcycle. This allows you to double check all key areas to make sure nothing is loose (which will be relevant in step 10.) It also makes it easier to check the motorcycle at technical inspection (the day of the event.)

Remove your center stand. This is for safety on the track. Almost all organizations require center stand removal. This is especially true for the more advanced (and therefore faster) groups. Some organizations and tracks may ask you to also remove your kickstand (side stand.)

Remove or tape up your mirrors. Sometimes removal is not an option, since it may be the only way your fairing is supported. In that case, tape up the mirrors so that if they contact the ground, the glass does not fall out on to the track surface.

Tape up your headlight(s)and signals. This includes the tail light and license plate light. If you can, remove the fuse for the headlight. With the headlight off, it reduces that chance of tape residue sticking to your headlight. Make sure to put the fuse back in before riding on the street again.

Check all of your controls, meaning clutch cable, throttle cable, brake lever, clutch lever, rear brake lever, and kill switch for proper operation. If they fail tech, you will have to get them fixed before you are allowed on the track. Doing it before you get to the track saves you stress if you have to do it while you are at the track. You are anticipating getting on the track and now you have to work on the motorcycle. Very stressful.

When you check your brakes, make sure you have enough brake pads to make it through the event. Riding hard on the racetrack will also cause you to use your brakes even harder. If you have new brakes pads installed before the event, try to get them seated and bedded in before the event.

Check your tires, both for tread wear and depth. Usually new or nearly new tires are required in order to pass tech. Badly worn tires will not pass tech and you may also be able to notice any unusual wear patterns on your tires, which might save you some aggravation early. An example of unusual wear would be bald sides on your front tire with tread in the center. This would indicate low front tire pressure, with the tire (tread) smoothing out while leaned over (turning) but keeping its shape while riding straight up and down.

Check your tire pressures and inspect your rims for damage (see step above.) You will probably have to adjust tire pressures before you get on the track, depending on various factors: your weight, the brand, the temperature, and the track surface. Check with your owner's manual, the track day organization, and your local tire representative for the best pressures for those conditions.

Clean and check your chain for proper slack and lubrication. You should not have a chain that is too loose or too tight. Check your owners manual for proper slack. Also make sure your chain is lubricated to prevent binding.

Make sure all your bodywork is properly supported and fastened. Do not have loose or flapping bodywork, it will fail tech inspection. Try not to have fur or other loose, flapping objects on your motorcycle. You will be asked to have those items removed before you can pass tech inspection and are allowed on the track.

Check your oil level. Try to change the oil if it has been a while to ensure that you have the best engine protection possible. The engine will be working especially hard on the track and dirty oil makes the job harder.

Drain your radiator and replace the glycol based coolant with water and a coolant substitute, such as Water Wetter or Engine Ice. Glycol based coolants are not allowed on the racetrack since they do not evaporate and leave the track surface slick (like oil.)

Secure your wheel weights (taped) on the rims. It prevents them from flying off while you are at high speed.

Make sure you have good valve stems and valve caps on your wheels.

If you have hard point saddle bags, remove the bags. The mounts can usually stay.

If you have auxiliary lights, it is a good idea to remove them. If they are fork mounted, they adversely affect handling and if they are frame mounted, they may become damaged in the event of a dropped bike. If you leave the lights on, tape them up. (If you have an on/off switch, leave them off. If you cannot turn them off, remove the fuse.)

Go to your track day organizer's website to get more specific tips on how to prepare your motorcycle. Go to a forum for your brand and model motorcycle to help prepare your motorcycle. Additional tips can be found at the website, http://www.elitesportbike.com/id11.html

These steps are based on what typical tracks and track day organizers generally require for motorcycle preparation. Always contact your track day organizer and/or track to confirm what they specifically require in order to ride with them.

About the Author
Robert is the owner of Elite Sportbike, a Southeast U.S. track day provider. Elite provides track day instruction for riders on racetracks in a safe, controlled environment. We have multiple groups for the Novice, Intermediate, and Advanced rider. Gain the knowledge, live the experience.

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Motorcycle Track Days - Hints and Tips to Make Sure Your Day is Successful
By Tim Monroe

Sportbike track days are becoming more and more popular. Twenty years ago it was nearly impossible to ride your street-legal motorcycle on an actual racetrack, but today you can find dozens of organizations and tracks that put on track days. Some track days are put on by brand-specific clubs, such as Club Desmo, while companies such as Fastrackriders invite all brands.

Once you've done a day of open practice at a racetrack, you may not go back to riding on the street. With no cops, no cars, no stoplights, and no speed limits, riding at a track can quickly become addicting. After a few track days you might even decide to start racing with a local club, such as the Willow Springs Motorcycle Club.

Here are a few tips, from a track day veteran, to help you have a successful and fun motorcycle track day:

1. Don't ride your bike to the track. While a few foolhardy individuals ride their bikes to track days, its really a bad idea. If you crash, how will you get home? How will you carry your tools and supplies for the day? And you'll likely be exhausted at the end of the day, the last thing you'll want to do is duke it out with the cages on the freeway for two hours. Put your bike in the back of a pickup truck or on a trailer, you'll be glad you did.

2. Don't be late. Get to the track nice and early, particularly if this is your first time. It will take a few minutes to figure out where to set you your pit, and to locate registration and tech inspection. You'll probably need a few minutes for last minute bike preparation as well. It's way better to have a little extra time, rather than be hurried and risk forgetting something.

3. Make sure you have medical insurance. While you're unlikely to run into a car out on the track, there's a small chance you'll go down. People have crashed at every track day I've ever been to, and chances are your club or organization will require that you have current medical insurance.

4. Prepare yourself. Get a good night's sleep. Don't drink alcohol for at least 1 hours prior to getting on the track. Make sure you're in decent medical condition, and good mental condition as well. Your fun will come to a rapid end if you're worrying about that paternity suit while entering Turn One at 120 miles per hour.

5. Bring things to make your day relatively comfortable. Lawn chairs, a cooler, maybe a small canopy or shade structure if you have one. You'll have some down-time in between track sessions, and its nice to have a place to sit down and relax for a few minutes. Bring some light food and snacks, and enough drinks to keep you hydrated thru the day, especially if its going to be a hot one.

6. Prepare your bike. Check with your local track day organization to see what their bike requirements are. Common requirements include:

a. New or nearly new tires

b. Tape off or remove lights, mirrors, turn signals.

c. Remove license plate.

d. Duct tape over wheel weights.

e. Replace coolant with water or Water Wetter.

In the past many track day organizers required bikes to have safety wire installed in crucial places such as the oil drain plug and brake calipers. These days, tho, few if any clubs require safety wire, as it's a pretty big pain to drill thru bolts. Again, check with your local club to see what they need you to do.

7. Bring gasoline and tools. Fill your tank before leaving your house, and bring an extra 5 gallons of gas, at a minimum. You could go thru 2 tankfuls of gas during one day at the track, and gas may be very expensive, or unavailable, at the track. Bring a few tools, at least enough to adjust your chain and suspension settings. Bring an air pump and a tire guage.

8. Most important: safety equipment. Make sure you bring a good quality DOT approved full face helmet, a set of riding leathers, good gloves, boots and back protector. Don't skimp on your safety equipment, it could literally save your life. Two piece zip-together leathers might be OK if you're not sure you'll ever ride on the track again. One piece racing type leathers are preferable.

Your day at the track will likely begin with a tech inspection and riders meeting. These are mandatory, not optional! Ask an instructor for tire pressure suggestions. Typically you'll want to run less tire pressure at the track than you do on the street.

Take it easy! Many crashes occur during the first laps of the day, when riders go out on cold tires and push the bike too much. Take it easy your first session. Learn the track, watch where other riders brake, accelerate, and turn. If available, take the new riders class, this will pay huge dividends in your riding, not to mention possibly saving you thousands of dollars on repairs to your bike.

I've often said that sport bike track days are the most fun you can have with your clothes on. It's not without risk, of course, but then what worthwhile activity is?

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Avoiding Accidents - Bigger Vision Sometimes Beats Bigger Brakes
By Adrian Rendon

People often practicing hard-braking because they realize it can potentially save their lives when they are riding. This is true, but another aspect that is often overlooked is prevention. If you can keep yourself out of the situation before it develops, then you don't have to worry about surviving it, right?

Keep your front brake covered with a couple fingers when you ride, but also: always think escape. If you know ahead of time where you will go, then it is easy to go there. Don't ride next to cars or trucks, but if you have to, always tell yourself that the driver next to you is about to try and kill you, and that you need to escape. Then, when he actually does try to kill you, you have mentally rehearsed and you can look at your escape route rather than target fixate on the collision vector.

The key is preparation. You can not afford to space out on a motorcycle. Using, the 80/20 rule, I would venture to say that 80 percent of the car drivers space out for at least 20 percent of their trip. Throw in a cell phone, and then you can count on them paying 80 percent attention to that phone and 20 percent attention to driving their car. You don't want to be around them on your motorcycle when they are in that 20 percent mode. So prepare for it, and stay clear.

On a motorcycle, you have to stay at 100 percent. Scan, scan, scan. Always know where the escape is. Don't let drivers creep up behind you, and don't practice hard braking so much that you forget to practice escaping (using the look and press-to-turn technique). Hard braking is worthless if a car or truck is tailgating you.

Know where the escape, or "out", is. If you have ever seen footage of a vehicle with it's brakes locked up before a crash, go back and review it again. You may be surprised to see that the driver may have had another "out", had they not focused on stomping on the brakes and staring at the back of the vehicle they were about to cream. Same goes for motorcycles: they are very maneuverable, and you would be surprised at the escapes that you can pull off, if you prepare and know where the "out" is.

Yes, you need to practice emergency braking. Learn to get both brakes balanced while simultaneously downshifting. That is a really important skill. But that skill isn't a substitute for heads-up riding; stay alert and mentally rehearse and weigh your options, that way when you are forced to react, you can decide on escaping or braking... you will make the right choice.

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Follow the Proper Basic Steps to Learn How to Ride a Motorcycle
By Thomas Haney

Have you ever ridden a motorcycle before? Even the mere idea of riding a motorcycle gives most people a little jolt of excitement. It doesn't matter if we're talking about a sportbike, or "crotch rocket," or a laidback cruiser; there's an inherent visceral thrill that's generated by these two-wheeled machines. Ask someone if they've ever ridden a motorcycle, whether as a driver or a passenger, and you'll either get an affirmative answer or a familiar "No, but I've always wanted to...."

Most motorcycle riders already cruising the highways or cornering through twisting canyons know all about the irresistible draw of motorcycles. But experienced riders all realize that riding a motorcycle demands a mature mindset, fundamental skills, constant practice, and most importantly, proper gear and training. If you want to learn to ride a motorcycle, learn it the proper way.

First, enroll yourself in a motorcycle rider training program. A fully licensed and certified training program, such as the one offered by the MSF (Motorcycle Safety Foundation), should be your preferred choice. Such a program will teach you the fundamentals of riding, as well as the factual and practical knowledge needed to pass a written and ridden motorcycle license test. Over the past few decades, these programs have taken hundreds of thousands of fledgling riders and put them on the right road to riding success.

Don't forget to carry along some basic riding equipment such as gloves, long-sleeved jacket, and sturdy boots. A helmet and a motorcycle will be provided. One or more highly experienced instructors will guide you through one or more days of lectures, following by actually riding exercises in an enclosed lot. Don't be intimidated though, the teachers will start you out at a slow, easy pace and have you controlling and riding a real motorcycle in no time.

After you've learned the basics of riding, go get your motorcycle license. Now you're free to hit the streets and practice on your own, or better yet, with more experienced riders. Make sure you take it very easy at first, and definitely avoid situations you can't handle, such as slashing canyon runs or rush-hour traffic in the middle of a big city. Your focus should be on staying safe and practicing the fundamental skills that you've learned.

Gradually (but much more quickly than you realize), your skills will improve greatly, and you'll join millions of other riders out there having a blast on the wide open highways today.

To get further info on how you too can learn to ride a motorcycle, visit MotoLearn.com, where you can get valuable tips and guidance on the best way to learn how to ride a motorcycle today.

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The Right Octane Of Gas To Run In Your Motorcycle
By C Miller

Most owners manuals don't tell you what octane to run, they simply say: unleaded gas. If this is the best your owners manual tells you, or if you don't have one, read on. But if it tells you a certain octane of gas to go with, use that, your bike may need a higher octane due to high compression.

If your motorcycle has a turbo, a supercharger, or nitrous oxide injection, then this does not apply to you. You should know all about fuel mapping by now (if you don't learn!)

If your motor is heavily modified, with high-compression pistons etc, you will need to run a higher octane as well.

Ok, so, if your manual doesn't say what to run, you don't have a turbo, supercharger, nitrous, or really high compression, then:

There is a big misconception that you need to run the highest octane you can. This is false.

Octane: the amount of resistance to detonation

Higher Octane Gas: More resistance to detonation

Lower Octane Gas:Ignites easier and produces more horsepower, assuming no detonation is present.

Detonation: basically when the air/fuel mixture ignites at the wrong time and cause a tremendous increase in pressure in the cylinders. If it continues for a long period of time, it can ultimately destroy the engine.

However, most sport bikes are designed to run 87 octane gas, and will not experience any detonation, but will actually LOSE power by running a higher octane, plus it will make it run hotter as well.

Check the tank:

If it says: 90 ((RON+MON)/2) - Use 90 octane or better

If it "knocks" or "pings" at all, increase the octane until it stops.

Knocking and pinging: During detonation, when the explosion occurs it creates a shockwave that reverberates inside combustion chamber and raises the pressure immensely, creating a metallinc "pinging" sound. If you experience this, stop the bike immediately, turn it off, put a higher octane gas in there.


About the Author

I am the webmaster of Custom Fighters - Everything About Sportbikes and Streetfighters

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Lightweight Wheels-Why They Make Such A Big Difference
By C Miller

One of the best performance modifications you can do to your motorcycle, is to put on lighter wheels! I know, you see that these wheels weigh like 10 pounds less than stock, so you're thinking, 10 pounds isn't gonna justify paying all that money for nice light rims. But the question is not how much weight are you saving, it's where is the weight you're saving?

Lighter wheels will make a tremendous difference in the handling of your bike, acceleration and deceleration “braking” of your bike for the following reasons.

Non-Rotational Weight:

One ounce reduced from the wheels total weight, is equal to 4 ounces taken off another part of the bike. Magnesium wheels will normally weigh at least 10 pounds less than your stock aluminum wheels. This is equal to 40 pounds of weight reduction on the bike, not too bad...

Rotational Weight:

This is the weight reduction on the outer rim of the wheel and this is where the weight reduction makes a HUGE difference. At 100mph, each ounce of weight reduced here, is like having 25 pounds of weight taken off the motorcycle! This is real weight that must be turned, accelerated, and stopped, and likewise, it will improve turning, acceleration, and stopping. At any speed the reduction is relative to the velocity of the bike. As you increase your speed the weight savings will increase exponentially.

There are many types of lightweight wheels out there, made in a variety of different materials, such as aluminum, magnesium, and carbon fiber.

What to expect:

Most people who upgrade to light wheels, experience better acceleration, better engine braking, "lighter feeling" in motion, and easier turning, with no noticable stability loss. Due to their ability to start spinning so easily, many riders report being able to "break loose" with the rear tire around corners, but without any loss of control.

Conclusion:

Although they may be expensive, I truly feel that lightweight wheels are an incredible upgrade for anyone looking to get more performance from their motorcycle. What other part can you get for your bike that gives you better handling, better braking, better acceleration, and better looks for that kind of money?


About the Author

I am the webmaster of Custom Fighters - Everything About Sportbikes and Streetfighters

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Motorcycle Suspension Basic Set Up
By Tim Monroe

Modern sporting motorcycles can come with a near dizzying array of suspension adjustability. Pre-load, compression damping, rebound, high-speed damping, low-speed damping, etc. Where to start?

Before you start looking over your bike to see what we're talking about, please note this article is primarily intended for the sportbike rider. Most cruisers have little or no suspension adjustability. You either live with what the factory gave you, you have your suspension components upgraded with after market units, or have the internal bits replaced by a professional.

The easiest and most important adjustment you can make is to set the static sag. Sag is just what it sounds like - how much the bike sags when you're on it.

Ideally your sag should be from 25 to 30 mm, or 1 to 1 ½ inches, on most bikes. To find out where your sag is, you'll need a helper. Dress up in all your usual riding apparel, including helmet, leathers, boots, etc. You want to set your sag using the same weight as when you ride. While standing next to the bike, push down on the tail once or twice to make sure the suspension is at its normal resting position.

Using a dowel rod, yard stick, or similar device, measure the distance from the ground to a particular point on the motorcycle. Turn signals or a point on the seat or frame will work fine. Just make sure the point you measure from is not covered up when you're on the bike. OK, got the measurement? Either write down the measurement (in inches or millimeters) or simply mark the spot on your rod/stick.

Now get on the motorcycle, in full gear. This is where your helper is needed. For the most accurate measurement, try to hold the bike fully vertical with both your feet on the pegs. In this position, take another measurement. See the difference? That is your sag. If it's smaller than 1 inch or greater than 1 ½ inches, you'll need to adjust the pre-load on your forks and/or shock to get the desired results. Increase pre-load (usually a clockwise turn of the adjusting screw or collar) a little at a time to reduce your sag. Decreasing pre-load will increase the amount your bike sags.

Adjusting rebound and compression damping is considerably more complicated, and requires riding your bike and trying different settings over time. More compression damping in front reduces the amount your bike will dive under braking. More in the back will reduce how much the rear end squats under power. Too much compression damping can cause the bike to ride rough, transmitting every bump in the road to you without absorbing much. If you're only riding on a smooth racetrack, more compression damping might be a good thing. If you ride on gnarly back roads, you'll probably want to soften up your settings.

For further discussion or questions on proper motorcycle suspension set up, please check out http://MotorcycleSMACK.com/high-performance-racing/54-suspension-settings-where-start.html

Rebound damping affects how much your wheels "bounce" off the brakes and wallow under power. Too much rebound damping and your suspension will not react fast enough to properly follow bumps in the road. Your forks or shock can get "packed down" by repeated bumps, which reduces your suspension travel and can lead to a very poor ride, or worse. Too little rebound damping in the front or rear and your bike will be wallowing around like a '68 Cadillac, making it very unpleasant and hard to control.

Your mission is to find the right balance for you and your riding style. Generally it's best to start out with the settings your bike came with from the factory. There's a reason why they're set where they are. From there, spend a little time on the bike. Is it too stiff? Does it wallow? Pay attention to how the different ends of the bike feel. Adjust accordingly, but not too much. We suggest adjusting in increments of one click at a time, until you find the sweet spot you're looking for.

Once you get your favorite settings dialed in, you can start playing around with them a little at different times. For example, you might want to tighten things up a bit for a fast track day at California Speedway. Or you might want to loosen them up a notch or 2 if you're planning to ride Carmel Valley Road (ask me how I know!). Whether or not you choose to leave the settings alone or make occasional adjustments, making your motorcycle handle better for you and your riding style can lower lap times, and will definitely enhance your riding enjoyment.


About the Author

Tim Monroe, MotorcycleSMACK

Two wheel expertise from decades of sportbikes and motorcycling -- dozens of great bikes, and thousands of thrilling miles.

Sportbike Forum - Have a bike question? ... come and ask at: MotorcycleSMACK.com.

Motorcycle News, Reviews, Articles, and Pictures - You'll love the biker babes and the bike reviews.

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Motorcycle Types - Choosing Your Bike
By Kevin Crockett

Are you in the market for a new motorcycle? There are many different types available. What type of riding do you do? How much do you want to spend? Do you ride daily or only on the weekends? These are just some of the questions you need to ask yourself. In today's motorcycle market there's a bike to fit just about everyone.

Sport bikes -

Pound for pound sport bikes are some of the most powerful vehicles legally permitted on public streets. They are a step away from full-fledged race bikes and with a few adjustments are easily able to run at the track. Because sport bikes are built for speed they usually are enveloped in an aerodynamic fiberglass mold that covers the engine and allows air to flow freely around it. Some of the features of a sport bike include: high tech design and materials, high performance parts to include the engine, suspension and brakes, a "tucked" riding position, clip on handle bars, and stiff suspensions. Sport bikes are not built for long distance riding.

Cruisers -

Cruisers are probably the most popular segment of motorcycles. When you think cruiser think comfort. They're built for long distance riding. They usually have motors that possess lots of low-end torque. Cruisers are usually heavy. They're easy to ride but they don't have the cornering clearance or ability of a sport bike. They're comfortable and usually have room for two.

Touring Bikes -

Touring bikes are also called dressers or full dressers. Touring bikes, like cruisers are built to go long distances but the difference is how cruisers get there. Touring bikes give their riders and passengers amenities that are usually found in luxury cars like plush rides and quiet engines. Cruisers offer large fairings, which provide excellent wind protection and help prevent fatigue. Their seats are large and comfortable and provide back support. Like cars some touring bikes have airbags. They have radios, CD's and MP-3 players as well as trip and navigation computers. Their suspensions adjust to provide the optimum ride and to top it off they can tow a trailer.

Standards -

A standard is a jack-of-all-trades motorcycle. It isn't built for one specific task but can perform many. Standards are usually good commuter bikes. They usually offer some wind protection, and are powerful enough to be fun on country roads. They can usually haul a small load or a passenger and sometimes both. Most bikes in this category have up-right riding positions, and friendly ergonomics.

Dual Sport -

Dual sport motorcycles are the adventurer's bikes. They're at home on the highway and the trail. They usually have large mirrors and gauges and a large gas tank. Their tires are designed both for the street and the dirt. They're built to withstand the rigors of off road riding and are very dependable.

As you can see the motorcycle industry offers many different types of motorcycles. It's up to you to decide which one fits you and your riding style.

At Edge On Motorcycling we want every ride to be your best ride. Come see us to get tips and strategies that will make you a more confident, skilled and capable rider. In addition you'll be eligible to enter our free monthly gear giveaway!


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Tips on Motorcycle Racing If You Can't Afford to Enroll in a Racing School
By Marikxon Manurung

Not all of us are blessed with sufficient time and money to be able to enroll in a racing school and take all the necessary courses to improve our motorcycle racing skills. If this is your problem as well, you can still have success in your chosen hobby or profession just as long as you're willing to practice hard and make the most out of your free time.

Basic Motorcycle Racing Lessons :

1. Braking - Emergency stops are common in the field of motorcycle racing. This lesson however is difficult to learn so expect to spend lots of time falling on your butt while you're attempting to perform a successful emergency brake. The key to emergency braking is being fully conscious of what you're doing. There are many instances in motorcycle racing that you'll be required to make an emergency stop, and when you do, your movements will be initially instinctive and automatic. Although your instincts may be correct, you've a better chance of saving yourself - and your position in the race - if your mind's working as well. Also, when you're pressed with time, concentrate on making an emergency stop with the use of the front brake. Using both brakes requires too much concentration and coordination skills and would only further compromise your safety.

2. Counter-Steering - If you've read lessons about counter-steering, you might be finding this particular move difficult to understand. The only thing you should remember when counter-steering is the rule "like follows like". If you're going right then it's your right hand that should be doing the work. It may seem complicated at first, but constant practice will soon make this move as natural as breathing.

3. Cornering - Again, there are many instances that you'll be required to make this move so don't bother skipping this lesson and postponing it to another day. If you want to succeed in motorcycle racing, you need to corner this lesson right away! Firstly, practice making accurate calculations in a matter of seconds. One glance of your surroundings should be more than enough for you to learn the degree of which you're required to turn to the corner and the necessary speed and gear you should employ when doing so.

Secondly, braking must be employed BEFORE you access the corner. The last requirement is simple: you need complete confidence in yourself. Confidence is the only thing that will enable you to increase your speed as you move even if your instincts are screaming to do the opposite. Confidence will teach you to trust your instincts, know when it's the right time to turn, and maintain your stability as you drive in a leaning position towards the end. You also can check out another motorcycle guide.

This article wrote by Max Manroe on http://www.motorcycle-guideline.com you also can check out another motorcycle guide there

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Super Bike School and Crotch Rocket Racing Technologies
By Lance Winslow

If you have ever watched Street Motorcycle Racing with Super Bike factory sponsor riding celebrities as the take corners at speeds of 160 plus miles per hour dragging their knees on the track, then you know how dangerous that sport can be. Imagine yourself as a factory sponsored rider on a crotch rocket in full gear and the training you would need.

Well, it just so happens I myself was in the same shoes as most “squids” when I signed up for Super Bike School many years back in California. At the time they were riding Ninja 600’s and nothing like today’s race bike technologies and believe me we were racing around afterwards in the novice class and were no where near those 160 speeds, especially not in the corners.

Learning to race motorcycles is fun as you come in to set up for the turns, your mind goes into slow motion, but it takes a while to get use to doing it in a fluid motion or even close to the finesse of the professional riders. One new technology on the horizon are the Holographic Technologies, which are getting closer to becoming reality. Imagine watching an image of a factory rider in front of you setting up the turn and executing it perfectly? You would match your bike to the holographic projection and attempt to mirror you actions to it.

By doing this you would be able to visualize it and then watch the video of yourself doing it for critique by the Super Bike coaches. Such an application for this technology could also prevent motorcycle accidents in traffic as you learned to maneuver your bike in all situations. I would recommend super bike school to all motorcycle riders, because these skills are important to avoiding all the idiot drivers out there. Think on this.

About the Author "Lance Winslow" - Online Think Tank forum board. If you have innovative thoughts and unique perspectives, come think with Lance; Think Tankhttp://www.WorldThinkTank.net/. Lance is an online writer in retirement.
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Motorcycles Help Save the Planet
By Pete Savage

Motorcycles are enjoying a resurgence of popularity among young Americans, and the driving force behind the two-wheeled trend is a surge of Baby Boomers with free time and expendable cash. While younger riders opt for inexpensive bikes from Honda, Suzuki, and BMW, older aficionados shell out for classic rides from Harley-Davidson. Motorcycles are one of the cheapest and most widespread forms of motorized transport in many parts of the world. Motorcycles are less safe than cars and must be operated with great caution. Because of their low crash protection and high performance capabilities, motorcycles are more likely to be involved in a severe collision.

Scooters are similar to motorcycles and are also designed for being ridden on the road. They are characterized by smaller wheels (generally less than 14" diameter), automatic transmissions, small (generally less than 125cc) engines, and a step-through configuration allowing the rider to ride with both feet on a running-board and knees together. Scooters and motorcycles are indeed half width but they are dangerous, are a drag in bad weather, and have poor aerodynamics.

Helmet and eye protection are required when operating a Class A or B motorcycle. It is recommended that helmet and eye protection be worn when operating a Class C motorcycle. Helmets perform two functions in a crash. The outer shell, which is constructed of fiberglass or injection-molded plastic, distributes energy from an impact across a wider area.

Probably a larger proportion of men ride motorcycles than women,although Harley-Davidson, for example, has established a Web site for women, sells clothing and gear for women, and sponsors "garage parties" at Harley-Davidson dealers to introduce women to motorcycling. Harley-Davidson Motor Company has built a reputation for making some of the most powerful, reliable, technically advanced, and distinctive motorcycles on the road. Most other motorcycle manufacturers look to Harley-Davidson to define what a motorcycle should look, act, and sound like. Harley-Davidson? motorcycles are as unique as the people who ride them.

Electric dirt bikes offer several compelling advantages over their current petrol-burning brethren, the most significant being they are completely silent. There is nothing more out of place in the forest than the bark of a four-stroke or the staccato rasp of a two-stroke - at complete odds with the tranquility of the wilderness and quite capable of spoiling the experience for those ten miles away, motorcycling without the noise is long overdue. Electric power has also made its debut in drag racing. A123 Systems, of Watertown, MA currently holds the record for the fastest electric drag-racing motorcycle finishing the quarter mile in 8.17 seconds and reaching 156 miles per hour. Electric motorcycles are becoming a practical alternative to the conventional ?dirty? Although they are very fuel efficient, conventional motorbikes are not equipped with emissions-control technology ?

With gas prices going through the roof, motorcycles are becoming more popular not just for fun but also for cost cutting our daily expenditure and reducing our carbon footprint.

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The World's Fastest Motorbikes
By Alan Liptrot

Hang onto your hats; we're going for a ride. The Superbike sector which was created during the seventies, would allow mere mortals such as you and I to ride something akin to the machines that our heroes use on the track. Of course we all ride sensibly, but to have that spare capacity in hand is something wonderful. Nobody's had this much power between their legs since Marilyn Monroe died. I can hear you all screaming 'Hayabusa', but here are a few others that turn heads (quickly). To avoid favouritism, I've listed them in alphabetical order. You can make up your own mind.

Aprilia RSV1000R

The V-twin power unit is going to generate 143 HP and push you up to 175mph if you're that way inclined. Experience in top class racing has allowed designers to come up with a frame that weighs in at less than 10,000 grams. Introduced in 1998 this bike is not only quick, but has the looks to go with it.

BMW K1200S

If I said 'Zero to Sixty mph in 2.8 seconds' you'll know where I'm coming from, and after that it just keeps on accelerating. With a top speed of 167mph, you ain't going to be late very often. I've never had the pleasure of riding this shaft driven beauty myself, but they say that the comfort and handling are second to none.

Ducati 1098s

160 horsepower and 169mph apart, this is one sexy bike. The high tail section gives the impression of speed, even when the bike is standing still. The whole bike only weighs 173kg, giving the highest torque to weight ratio of any production sport bike ever.

Honda CBR 1100XX Super Blackbird

Production of this superb machine began 1997. The Blackbird gave high performance and touring comfort. At 178mph this bike won the title of 'The World's Fastest Production Bike', stealing the glory from Kawasaki. Some wag once said that the Blackbird cut through the air like a surgeon's scalpel and I can see where that analogy came from. To my eyes, this bike is just beautiful.

Kawasaki Ninja ZX-14

Known as the ZZR1400 in Europe and Japan, this is Kawasaki's flagship model in the Sport bike sector. It takes just 2.5 seconds for this bike to reach 60mph and has a top speed of 186mph. It can cover a quarter mile from a standing start in less than ten seconds.

MTT Turbine Superbike Y2K

Created by Ted McIntyre of Marine Turbine Technologies Inc, this bike is only the world's second wheel driven motorcycle powered by a turbine engine, and doesn't it move; 227mph to be precise. It has a Rolls Royce Allison 250 series engine and is recognised by Guinness World Records as the 'Most Powerful Production Motorcycle'. If you want one, you'll have to find around $150,000.

MV Agusta F4 1000R

Released in 2006, this bike which could whizz you up to 185mph in rapid time set a world record at Bonneville Salt Flats and won the title of the 'Fastest Production Class 1000cc'. Massimo Tamburini, the designer had this to say about his creation 'The dream of every design engineer is to come up with the most beautiful sports motorcycle in the world, then turn it into the fastest, most exclusive sought after and powerful on the market. This was my dream too. I wanted to feel the reactions of a racing bike that could put every available ounce of power through to the ground beneath me'. You know, I think he may have cracked it.

Suzuki GSX1300R

Ah yes, the famous Hayabusa. Introduced in 1999, this bike is capable of reaching a speed of 190mph. 'Hayabusa' is Japanese for Peregrine Falcon, a bird known for its speed. The bird is also a predator of the blackbird, which also happens to be the name of the previously fastest production motorcycle. Makes you think doesn't it?

Yamaha YZF R1

Introduced in 1998, this machine brought the sector nearer to a true racing motorbike. Its 1000cc engine powers the bike up to 176mph. In June of 1997, Nick Sanders of the United Kingdom completed a circumnavigation of the globe riding a YZF R1. His time of 31 days, 20 hours set a record for the fastest motorcycle circumnavigation. He covered 19,930 miles in breaking the record.

About the Author
Alan Liptrot is the founder of http://www.motorbike-tours.co.uk The company offers guided motorcycle tours in Spain, Portugal and Morocco. Each tour served by a back-up vehicle that carries luggage, and the occasional tired pillion. You bring your own much loved motorcycle and we will guide you through the plains and mountains of Southern Europe and North Africa. Article Source: www.ezinearticles.com

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The Most Important Accessory for Your Sports Bike
By Ma. Carla Ballatan

When it comes to accessorizing, riders and owners of motorcycles, particularly those that are new in this field, often spend their money in increasing engine performance. Oftentimes, they put their entire budget on performance motorcycle parts accessories like exhausts, fuel injection, mapping systems, and other components to help boost the motorcycle's engine.

But once they experience track riding, the illusion of power as the most important component to gain speed fades fast. In fact, too much of it without taking into consideration the other factors may just make your motorcycle more than you can handle. Many have experienced that it could actually make one slower than the others with less powerful bikes.

So what performance motorcycle parts accessories should you invest in? Here are some suggestions of expert riders of motorcycles:

Suspension

Lance Keigwin of Star Motorcycle School and Hare Racing, suggests that riders should take full note of the suspension. This is one component that can increase speed in motorcycles, according to Keigwin. Unfortunately, most riders often overlook this factor. He further explained that some of the stock bikes today may perform under regular conditions; however, when pushed beyond the average riding situations, their performance becomes questionable. "I do not suggest, however, that you spend a fortune in full suspension components; instead, I suggest you work with your stock suspension and use components that may improve the stock equipment like the gold valve emulators," Keigwin added.

Tires

According to Keigwin, tires are another important component when it comes to handling motorcycles. "Simple knowledge of how the different types of tires help maneuverability may also help you be a faster and smoother rider," he suggests.

Keigwin further suggests reducing weight from unsprung parts such as wheels, rotors, sprockets and engine parts. He said that this technique helps in handling the motorcycle better. His opinion is that some of the weight of the components may create the effect that makes the motorcycle go straight. However, by installing lighter components, according to Keigwin, helps in improving considerably the handling of the motorcycle. For him, "Power is almost at the end of my list of priorities; right before cosmetics."

Handling factor

The handling factor also comes as a priority above power and cosmetics. This is according to Alex Florea of AFMotorsports. Florea said that to an average rider, several things may not be so visible. This includes installing taller tires without adjusting the geometry. This may cause riders to loose stability and may need to adjust the triple clamps on the forks to make up for the difference. With regards to slicks, he suggests that DOT tires are better investments.

About the Author

Granny's Mettle is a 30-something, professional web content writer. She has created various web content on a diverse range of topics, which includes digital printing topics, medical news, as well as legal issues. Her articles are composed of reviews, suggestions, tips and more for the printing and designing industry.

Her thoughts on writing: "Writing gives me pleasure… pleasure and excitement that you have created something to share with others. And with the wide world of the Internet, it gives me great satisfaction that my articles reach more people in the quickest time you could imagine."

On her spare time, she loves to stay at home, reading books on just about any topic she fancies, cooking a great meal, and taking care of her husband and kids.

For comments and inquiries about the article visit www.motorcyclepartsbin.com

Article Source: www.ezinearticles.com

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